Dunedin Jan-30-31st

Tonight will be our 3rd night staying at the Scenic Southern Cross hotel in Dunedin. The city was awarded NZ most beautiful city in 2008 and is rated among the 101 must-dos for Kiwis! Fantastic examples of Victorian and Edwardian architecture are found throughout the city. The Railway station (1906); Larnach Castle (1871), NZ only castle, the University of Otago designed gothic style in 1878; Spright’s Brewery, in operation since 1876; Olveston, a Jacobean-style mansion; First Presbyterian Church with its 54-metre spire; the Municipal Chambers, designed in 1878 and St. Paul’s Cathedral made of Oamaru Stone. This town has it all; Botanic gardens, Baldwin Street (the world’s steepest street), Albatross colonies, yellow eyed penguins, great food & beer, including a Cadbury chocolate factory.
A population of 123,000 with 20% being students; our city tour guide called it a city with old buildings and young people! How true! The wealth generated by the goldfields was instrumental in establishing the Boys High School, Girls High School and the university (the first in NZ). Wealth was reflected by how high up the hill you built your house. Per our guide, “the wealthy looked out at the sea; everyone else looked at each other”. Certain streets are exceptionally wide, in a city of narrow streets. These streets were used to transport goods from the port to the commercial district. The width of these streets resulted from the turning radius of a 14-bullock team. Bullocks were used for drayage because horses were useless in the mud. Dunedin was called “Mudedin” by its residents.
Saturday morning we strolled along the local farmer’s market at the Railway station. In the afternoon we did the scenic bus tour (old London double-decker). Today we travelled to the farthest tip of the Otago peninsula to catch the actions of the Fur seals and Sea Lions and watched a Royal Albatross soar overhead. We stopped at Larnach Castle to tour the gardens and marvel at the views from the top of the highest mountain in the local area. Tonight we dined at the casino!
Tomorrow we will drive north to Christchurch. Yes, I will spend my 60th birthday on the road driving along the South Pacific Ocean. We have reservations at the Beachlife Apartments New Brighton, with a balcony facing the ocean – we’ll let you know how it goes!

Catlins – Fri-Jan-29

Leaving Invercargill we headed towards the Catlins, a race against the tides! The Catlins are best seen at low tides. Unfortunately we missed the signpost for the Scenic Route and took Hwy 1 instead, which cost us valuable time. We then drove south along inland secondary roads to reach the ocean and Curio Bay. Years of pounding by the sea has worn away the soil here at Curio Bay to reveal fossilized remains of the Jurassic period 180 million years old. A NZ national treasure & the rock face is a strictly protected area. However, it is permissible to walk it at low tide and marvel at the visibility of the tree rings; the position of the logs is evidence of several floods with the forest growing back between the events. The petrified stumps look more like coal or carbon than trees.
On the other side of the point was Porpoise Bay, home to Hector‘s dolphins. These dolphins are found only in NZ; talking to the Conservation employee we just missed a spectacular display! Darn! A walk along its beautiful sandy beach, complete with sea lions and a solitary blue penguin. (Picture attached) Lunch at Steve’s beachside store, we drove NE past Niagara Falls (sense of humour down here!) then towards Papatowai. Petro stations were few and far between; burning fumes upon our arrival. Taking more back roads, we stopped at Purakaunui Falls, claimed to be the most photographed falls in NZ. It was scenic and we saw a perfectly hallowed out tree – I’m certain I saw Papa Smurf!
It was getting late and the gate to Cathedral Caves was closed, we drove on to Nugget Point to walk to the lighthouse. This was certainly worth the drive (and the 2K walk) out to the point. Great sea vistas from the lighthouse, looking down over the cliffs we saw seals & royal albatross. Wonderful but windy! Leaving Nugget Point we drove to Balclutha, stopping for coffee, then to Dunedin. We were surprised at the geographic size of Dunedin, as it is strung along the coast and to find I-Site closed. Helpful NZ used their cells to try a few places but no luck as the Masters Golf Championship is in town. They suggested the Scenic Southern Cross Hotel (casino), just an easy walk from where we stood. Happenstance we found the right location, within two blocks of the Octagon, the centre of town. It was now 8PM so we went for a short walk, ate dinner at an Indian restaurant and returned to the hotel. Good night Dunedin.

Invercargill Thur-Jan-28

Tom and I were looking forward to this part of the trip; home of the “World’s Fastest Indian” and Burt Munro! The day was excellent from beginning to end. We left Te Anau at 10 am, driving the scenic route to Manapouri along the mountain ranges of the Fiordland National park to Tuatapere, continuing along the rugged coast to Riverton, into Invercargill only stopping to turn around at Bluff where the road ends or begins for NZ.
Our stops along the way included Lake Manapouri which is NZ largest lake. Deep below Lake Manapouri is their power station. The station generates hydro-power by diverting water down 200+ metres below the ground. Massive turbines drive a generator and the water is discharged along a tunnel into Deep Cove in Doubtful Sound. Tours were available however we didn’t relish the bus drive down a 2K tunnel!
The drive was better than expected; straight roads through fertile valleys, a few one-way bridges and sheep farms. We had gentle mountain climbs through reforestation successes & into deep valley gorges – no traffic – great vistas! We snapped a photo of newly sheered sheep grazing alongside the road and estimated 3000 or more in just that one field. Sheep are everywhere....in great numbers! We noticed more power lines and grid systems, yucca-type plants line the roadside and tuffs of amber growth adorn the hillside. Closer to Tuatapere the farms appear more prosperous. Entering Tuatapere we read “last place in NZ to see the sunset and home of the sausage king”!
At Orepuki we stopped to view the southern NZ coastline and the Tasman Sea. Across the Foveaux Strait we could see the outline of Codfish Island, NZ largest pest-free island. Pest-free means free of rats and rabbits! Stewart Island was 52K across and we were 60K from Invercargill. We stopped at Riverton, one of the oldest settlements dating back to the sealing & whaling days in the 1830s. We ate our picnic near the beach on a cedar picnic table. The children’s playground was also built from cedar; benches shaped like Blue Cod and Whales with the smell of cedar. A refreshing change from the real thing!
We walked on the beach and watched people swim and play in the surf. Liz & I managed to dip our toes in but couldn’t imagine going any further. I collected beach stones; amber, orange, white and multi-coloured; small, round stones smoothed by the rolling waves. A tiny slice of heaven!
We drove on to Invercargill; a quick stop at I-Site before driving to Bluff. Bluff is the oldest town in NZ and it shows! It is where you catch the ferry to Stewart Island but at $63 (one-way fare) plus the cost of tours we couldn’t justify $500 to see nature the way it was in 1824. We drove to the start of state highway 1 but didn’t see the signpost for the most southern point on the NZ mainland. Excluding Stewart Island, the next stop is Antarctica!
We stayed at Comfort Inn Tayesta Motel in Invercargill, guests of Diane & Stewart Whitney. If you visit Invercargill you will not find a friendlier or nicer place to stay! Great value and a great location; we felt like we were visiting family and were treated like long lost relatives. A welcome relief after a long day of touring! At their recommendation we ate dinner at The Cabbage Tree Restaurant & Outpost Tavern; known for their seafood and door-to-door courtesy van service. We were not disappointed and Tom had a break from driving. The restaurant is near Oreti Beach where the motorcycle race in the “World’s Fastest Indian” was filmed. Each November the local motorcycle club hosts a Burt Munro Challenge to honour him, the love of speed and motorcycles. Invercargill is a destination as well as a beautiful and striving town to visit with lots of history similar to that far eastern city in Canada!

Milford Sound Wed-Jan-27

On the road by 7 am for Milford Sound; our incentive a bakery with freshly baked scones and coffee. I-Site lady told us the drive from Te Anau (120K) could take 3 hours with stops at all the vistas; she suggested restraint until the return leg! Truly good advice but difficult to follow; with only one stop we arrived at 9:30 for our 10 am cruise departure. The drive was scenic! We drove by Lake Mistletoe, Mirror Lakes (45 degrees latitude south), Lake Gunn, Divide, Lake Marian and the Chasm. Along tree-lined roads, where the sun never reaches; trees and rocks covered in mosses and lichens; views of waterfalls, fiords, towering granite peaks and sculptured rock formations. The road a constant of sharp switch-backs with recommended speeds 25 to 55 KPH. Uphill and down vale as the saying goes, as we drove deeper into Fiordland National Park. A stunning alpine drive!
Our one stop was just before we entered Homer Tunnel; glacier snow and a pull off area with a plaque on the tunnel’s history were right there. Exiting the car we were caught by the road incline – I staggered like I had too much Baileys with my morning coffee! The Homer Tunnel took over 20 years to complete. Construction began in the 1930s with workers from all walks of life; first time labourers for most. The tunnel was initially started with 5 men using picks & wheelbarrows. Conditions were harsh. The camp received no direct sunlight from May to September, and frozen snow covered the ground for most of the year. The tunnel opened in 1954; surviving WWII, avalanches and numerous flooding. A straight tunnel with unlined granite walls to reflect your car’s headlights & to guide you through the 1270 metres with a 1:10 gradient down! It truly is a hole-in-the-mountain! There was no transition to get use to the darkness inside the tunnel; once again Tom heard 3 female voices asking if he had the lights on. It was narrow, dark and uneven surfaces; the car seemed to dip towards one side for awhile and then to the other ... hair rising! Traffic lights operate between 9AM to 5PM allowing traffic to flow in one direction. Since we arrived before 9 am, we drove with our fingers crossed that the only light coming towards us was the end of the tunnel and not the preverbal freight train!
Arriving in Milford Sound the two things we noticed were the steep slopes of mountains rising directly from the ocean and the black flies! Thank goodness Liz brought fly repellent! You must Google Milford Sound! Absolutely worth the drive! Shortly after leaving the wharf we see waterfalls 160+ metres high. Mitre Peak at a height of 1682 metres is one of the highest mountains in the world to rise directly from the ocean. It is difficult to comprehend the geological events; the captain said 20 ice ages have occurred & each one carved another step into the Sound. We stopped at Seal Rock to see Southern Fur Seal! (I snapped a rare photo of mom feeding her pup!) We cruised the 16K from the head of the fiord to the Tasman Sea; depths from quite shallow to 300+ metres. We turned around in St. Anne’s bay to show how the entrance to the Fiord was hidden from open view. As the sea was smooth the captain gave Liz and Helen a turn at the helm; one more item of their individual bucket list.
Shortly after noon we were back on the road driving away from Milford Sound. We had a picnic lunch but fearing the Black Flies would eat more than we, decided to try our luck elsewhere. We now shared the road with traffic so while the scenery was magnificent all eyes were focused on the road, especially since we were now driving the outside lane! The tunnel traffic lights were operational and the stream of traffic helped light the tunnel. We were still ready for lunch and a break from the road after driving 30K through these steep passes. Gunn Lake was perfect; a tranquil setting of mountains, white clouds, blue sky and aqua water! We sat on two large logs on the beach to eat our picnic and drink in the view. We watched 3ft-long eels circling the reeds just off shore (I have several photos). We arrived at Te Anau by 4pm. We enjoyed a glass of NZ white wine on our patio; Helen & Liz cooked a fine dinner and prepared a picnic lunch for our drive tomorrow. WOW!
Reflecting on Milford Sound and this Maori legend: “Toitu he kainga: whatungarongaro he tangata.... Long after people have disappeared, the land will remain”; all I can say is “I hope so!”

Te Anau Fiordland Tues-Jan-26

Left Queenstown at 10AM driving south along Lake Wakatiu to Kingston on route to Te Anau. A quick stop in Kingston to calm our nerves from the ‘scenic’ drive and see their Flyer! The drive was along a twisting road with drop-offs into the lake and bordered by mountains on our left. On some of the hairpin turns we felt as if we were careening out-of-control. We had 4 drivers in the car instead of one –> Tom, the calm one, doing an excellent job. The scenery was also excellent!
At Kingston we stopped at the pier to admire the lake view; a pebbly beach, a good wharf and pleasure craft enjoying the sunshine on the lake. The Kingston Flyer, a historic steam train dating back to 1878 when it serviced the gold fields on wooden lines is quiet today, awaiting the results of a mortgage auction. Railway cars rested on sidings were parked near the original train station, dating back to the early 1950s providing a look at 1st & 2nd class comforts! You could post letters onboard but it would cost; “mail requires additional one-cent postage for being late” the sign said! We were tempted by cappuccinos before continuing our journey. Good coffee!
From Kingston to Te Anau we drove through a flat fertile valley with “lots” of sheep farms. The road was straight with distance visibility – a welcome change. Rocks littered fields; stone fences still used as borders. Lichen on the larger rocks reminded me of NL & Ireland. Second to sheep were deer farms, followed by cattle. The scenery was picturesque. Arriving in Te Anau, we picnic lakeside with its sparkling blue waters and backdrop the Fiordland National Park Kepler Mountains.
We then searched for our hotel; Garden Park, 30 Lakeshore Drive. Easy enough? No street numbers on buildings & a name change – not sure if we were more relieved or annoyed when Jodie at reception said we had arrived! The units were old, musty and at the extreme end of the grounds! Not a particularly great start! Tom told her she had to do better or we were moving on. Sometimes it pays to let someone know you are not willing to take what nobody else wants! She moved us to newer, brighter rooms with spas & nice gardens. Once again we are surrounded by flowers!
Te Anau is a nice lakeside town. While it is a tourist town it doesn’t feel like a tourist town. You are not gouged wherever you go and there are no tacky shops and video arcades. Fishing & “flight seeing” appear to be hot ticket items, especially to explore Milford Sound. We bought cruise tickets for 10AM tomorrow to keep ahead of the bus tours; a 7AM start for a drive through more mountains. Summer-end sales are in the stores; Liz & Helen found some great bargains! Today is Helen’s birthday. Tonight we ate lamb at Distinction Luxmore Hotel’s the Bailiez to celebrate. A very good meal for a very fine day!

Queenstown Jan-25-2010

We made it to Queenstown Sunday on schedule; a very bumpy landing; winds 40K, sharp right angle turns as we spiral down between the mountains – Pilot talking us through the expectations so no heroics from any passenger. We landed quite safely 10-minutes early! Liz & Helen left us a note with AVIS; they had walked to the Marina Apartments. The hotel was only 2+K from the airport all downhill and they needed fresh air after their long journey! We understood that very well!
Within an hour of landing we had our luggage and rental car; and met at the hotel. The roads are simpler than around Hamilton. The hotel is new; we have a 2-bedroom unit facing Lake Wakatiu with the towering Remarkables mountains as a backdrop; kitchen, laundry, and balcony. New World grocery shopping is 2K away and Frankton Arm walkway an easy-1-hour trek is minutes from our door. We’ve hit pay dirt again!
Queenstown surpasses all our expectations! Downtown is compact bordered by Lake Wakatiu and the Remarkables. We gravitated to the lake first! On route we talked to crew and actors involved with a Bollywood production called ‘I hate Love Stories’. The leading lady is the daughter of the game show host on ‘Slum Dog Millionaire’. We decided to orientate ourselves with a ride on the Skyline Gondola, 790m above Queenstown. We were not disappointed; breathtaking views of the lake, the mountains and the town. For perhaps an hour we sat at the top and watched people testing their driving skills in a series of downhill hairpin bends in a luge; or paraglide in tandem and singularly from the mountain’s edge. We watched in awe has the pilots straightened their lines, harnessed in their passenger and then jumped off the face of the mountain into the updraft! They soared over Queenstown, the lake and into the valleys! We watched spelled bound; Liz the only one with a yearning to try ... medical insurance coverage kept her by our side!
Hunger drove us off the mountain for home! By 2pm we were ready to explore some more. This time we drove north to Arrowtown. Gold was discovered in the Arrow River in 1862 and thousands of miners from around the world flocked to the area. At the height of the rush, 7,000 people lived here; building cottages of stone and timber, hotels, saloons and gambling /dance halls. Today the town is preserved with most of the original `fronts’ to attract tourists; for $3.00 + $10 deposit you may rent a pan and go down to the river to search for gold. A colourful town and we did see a few golden flecks!
On the drive back to Queenstown, we stopped at Shotover River Canyon to watch the jet boats fly through the canyon at record breaking speeds and spins with water flying everywhere.... no thank you! The canyon was jagged cut, through very steep cliff; water aqua green and the sand fine & warm. We were home a little after 6; tired from all the sun and fresh air. Tomorrow we move further south to Te Anau, as we celebrate Helen’s birthday and prepare for our trip to Milford Sound on Wednesday.
So far we love the south island of NZ!

Hamilton Sat-Jan-23

This will be our final post from Hamilton; tomorrow we fly south to Queenstown. There we will meet up with Helen & Liz to begin the second chapter of our ‘down under’ adventure. A colourful rainbow graced the horizon this morning; no doubt a promise of sunnier days! We returned the Old Ford to the rental agency and focused on preparations for Sunday’s move to Queenstown. The airport shuttle confirmed an 8:30am pick-up; our flight’s at 11:10. It’s been a luxury staying here; especially with dependable internet to enable us to stay in touch; whenever an opportunity presents itself we will be back online. Kia Ora

Hamilton, Fri-Jan-22

Overnight we had a repeat performance of heavy rain and thunderstorms. By midday it looked bright enough to venture a walk at one of Hamilton’s 2 arboretums. We decided on Taitua; free admission and on route to the grocery store. Taitua is a bucolic country setting of 2 circular walking tracks and bridges through mature trees, open pastures, ponds, and woodland gardens. Stately eucalyptus trees (90+ feet) ribbons of white bark floating on the wind. Hibiscus, clematis, mountain flax, and dragon’s gold are ubiquitously. Fuchsia trees grow at forest edge (40-50 feet) have a short gnarled trunk and cinnamon coloured bark which hangs in long strips.
“Wildlife” consisted of grazing cattle, hens, black swans,pukeko and ducks. The cattle complained loudly until a farmhand in gumboots moved them to new pasture where the grass was long enough for a good feed! The hens were aggressive, darting from the undergrowth looking to see if we had food. We were a “pied piper” for hens, roosters and chickens running a few paces behind us – begging for a morsel ... we had nothing! Almost felt guilty; especially when two did not quit and followed us back to the car! “Hens are dumb” - right? Back to the grocery store! Tonight we ate fresh NZ lamb leg steak – delicious & tender!

Hamilton, Thur-Jan-21

It rained overnight and into mid-morning. We drove along the Waikato River from Flagstaff to Hamilton Lake and briefly strolled on the boardwalk but the continuing drizzle soon forced us to the downtown entertainment strip along Victoria between Collingwood and Hood; an area of wall-to-wall restaurants, bars and fast-food joints. Hamilton has the second-largest collection of cafés in the country and most of them are along this stretch. The street is not busy this rainy afternoon but likely attracts large crowds at night and on weekends. Further up Victoria are higher-end stores and shopping areas. Window-shopping is encouraged as most stores have wide overhangs to shelter pedestrians from rain and sun (suspect it’s rain!). It makes strolling around more enjoyable but detracts from the architecture of the older buildings and is unattractive where no effort was made to coordinate styles or colours.
There are 7 bridges that span the Waikato River & link both sides of Hamilton downtown. We caught a glimpse (that’s all) of an interesting river walk - weather not today! But “Let’s do the time warp again” – yes we stood at the birthplace of The Rocky Horror Picture Show. The site of The Embassy Theatre, the home of Hamilton's ‘Late Night Double Feature Picture Show’ and the barber shop where Richard O'Brien cut hair and daydreamed (1959 to 1964). Riff Raff, the main character in the Rocky Horror Show stands proudly on the corner of Victoria St. A photo opportunity on this damp day!

Our sole purchases are a used book and espressos, before we collect the Old Ford from the parking garage and head to the burbs. Our timing is such (5:30 afternoon rush) that we experience our first roundabout gridlock. Most drivers exhibit caution, courtesy and patience. Not a typical Toronto driving experience! Only two more sleeps in this wonderful home before the next leg of our journey begins!

Hamilton, Tues-Jan-19

Today we drove to Cambridge, NZ’s equine capital. Stud farms abound. The importance of breeding to the local economy is reflected in horse statues and the Equine Stars Walk of Fame; no hoof prints but an embedded likeness of the famous horse! Charisma is the most famous, a 2-time Olympic show-jumping champion. We toured downtown, visited the local museum, and then lunched at a sidewalk bistro. The food, coffee and town are the best so far! We continued SE another 25K to the town of Tirau. I-Site host pointed out local items of interest, including a private museum and an old swing bridge across the Waikato River. He had Tom’s interest when he heard the museum had old trackers, cars and motorbikes.
The museum is owned/operated by a 3rd generation “bee-keeper” and seller of clover honey. Now in semi-retirement he decided to open his collection of “rubbish” (his terminology) to the public. Steam engines, munitions, antique vehicles, old motorcycles, farm tractors, mock-ups of general stores, sewing machines, dental chairs and municipal record books have all found a home in his 13,000 sq. ft. garage. Most are local, salvaged, not restored; adding a strong sense of history. He gave us a personal tour, pointing out the displays we must view, entertaining us with stories to match. “My head is filled with useless information”, he said. Sound familiar Lewis? We snooped around while he tended to his bees. I snapped Tom’s photo with a pristine 1951 Calendar!dare I say "Monday's Child is fair of face"!
After a long good-bye from this entertaining fellow, we used back road directions to Arapuni; his birthplace & the home of a 1920 swing bridge over Waikato River, NZ’s longest running waterway. The river gorge drops about 300 ft. but seems higher as the bridge sways just from the footfalls of other pedestrians. A large sign warned that no running or jumping was allowed on the bridge; maximum of 30 and no horses or motorcycles. Charming.........
Did I mention that NZ has an abundance of 1-lane bridges? These are interesting, especially when one can’t see if there is oncoming traffic before venturing across. You trust that everyone is obeying the right-of-way signs; especially those foreign tourists! A successful day’s excursion.........

Hamilton, Sun-Mon-Jan-17-18

Sunday we relaxed around the house; cloudy and humid, a good day to get caught up on laundry, watch rugby and read a book. Tom fired up the BBQ for Moroccan lamb sausage. Monday raining – we decided to check out the shops! We drove to The Base outlet centre and looked for bargains; first time with no map in the car!
Our rented Ford Focus still smells like an ashtray and won't set any speed records but it is miserly on fuel; the equivalent of $CDN 1.45 for regular. The drivers are aggressive; especially those driving small vehicles which lack adequate acceleration to pass on the short straights so try to intimidate others to drive faster by tailgating. Meanwhile the police are running a media campaign implying that "foreign tourists" cause most of the accidents. Go figure......... We are ready to start week two....

Hamilton, Sat-Jan-16

We’ve driven to the west and south of Hamilton. We will reserve the east coast of the North Island for our return drive with Helen & Liz in February. Today we go north 35K to Huntly; recommended for its wetlands, coal mining history and candy land. The town sits on a long narrow strip of land on either side of the Waikato River and has the largest coal-fired generating station in the Southern Hemisphere. The biggest employers are still involved in the coal mining industry; fast becoming known for speedway tracks and stock car racing.
On route we passed a cemetery built on a steep hill where the last native Queen of NZ is buried at the top. The pecking order for a burial site depends on how you were regarded in life. The more esteem, the higher your burial plot! If you could see the steepness of the hill you would wonder who thought of that concept!
Once in Huntly, we stopped at I-Site for a local map & food for a picnic at Lake Hakansa. Fishing at the lake were 3 Chinese men; while we lunched one landed an eel and the other a Tench. From a lake billboard, we learnt a Tench is a bottom-feeder fish! Didn’t want to think what they planned on doing with these! The lady at I-Site mentioned the restaurants on Main Street are mostly owned by Chinese. We also saw a sign listing local foods available: goat, venison, smoked eel, fish, rabbit and beef. Perhaps we found one of the food sources.
Lake Hakansa has a walkway around the lake (3.6K) promoted as a scenic, relaxing and serene stroll. The walkway includes a native tree reserve, a Japanese garden, the Green Cathedral, a bog garden, and other gardens representing various regions of the globe. We were disappointed in this venue but perhaps it was just too hot and humid for tramping around wetlands. We stopped regularly to take advantage of any breeze but the small flies and stagnant smell from the lake kept us moving... not a repeat. Not all lost – we did see some very pretty water lilies! We returned to Hamilton, pleased to check Huntly off our list!

Hamilton, Fri-Jan-15

This morning we woke to bright sunshine and heat – by bedtime it was still 21 C; a nice surprise when we were expecting rain. We enjoyed the morning on the patio and answering emails. We had planned a trip to Hamilton Gardens for a terrace lunch; but with this heat we decided to wait until late afternoon and do grocery shopping first. We shopped for meat: beef, lamb, venison and chicken are in abundance! We chose minced beef for a Mexican plate & lamb butterfly chops. Tom couldn’t resist the lamb sausages for a BBQ on the patio! We dropped in to say hello to Hans at his cheese shop; more wonderful smells and 2 more taste sensations.
Around 3 pm we drove to Hamilton Gardens. The grounds are free admission with a series of round-a-bouts, paths and passageways to various gardens. Five collections of garden types exist. We managed to visit 4: Paradise, Productive, Fantasy and Cultivar. The Paradise and the Cultivar were favourites but all were a treat to the eyes and nose! We pinched the Herbs, smelled Perfume flowers, tapped the pumpkins, spoke of Maria & Emilio at the zucchini flowers and roamed the Rose gardens – something for everyone. We were stress-free by the time we left! Lesson 1: the large globed purple flowers that flourish here are Rhododendron and not Hydrangeas! Helen & Liz – you will love the colours!
In the Paradise collection, the Chinese, Japanese and India gardens were a retreat for calm & meditation; the English a sea of White Daisies & Roses; the American designed for kids with wading pools. The Cultivar we left for last and stayed in the Rose Garden the longest! We strolled around Turtle Lake. The turtles as well as the ducks came to see if we had food. Families were enjoying the lake’s cool breeze as they fed the ducks and birds; obviously a regular pastime. We were home before 7; didn’t need the map, took a bypass route and no detours! We have arrived! End of Day 8 - Kia Ora

Hamilton, Thur-Jan-14-2010

We were on the road by 10 this morning; Barry & Fay had dropped by to check on the lawn & we enjoyed a wee visit. They were very helpful & gave us their phone # just in case we got lost badly enough to need help!
Today our destination is “Waitomo Glowworm caves” about 100 km southwest of Hamilton. Using the same directions to leave Hamilton as we did for Raglan, we had only one short detour before we were on highway 23 driving to “Whatawhata” – yes that is its colourful name! From there we travelled south to Otorohanga, on route passing Welsh Street. First Bryant & now Welsh – thus covering off my parents family names! We drove through green picturesque scenery; rolling foothills, terraced hills etched into valleys, farmlands, beef & Holstein cattle, hillsides dotted with sheep, equestrian farms and giant ferns everywhere (10+ft) with broad Cleopatra-style fans.
Reading town’s exit sign “Farewells You” and repeating our mantra for safety “Wide Right, Tight Left!” we drove to Otorohanga. A town with giant-size statues of colourful Kiwi birds the national icon, a flash in time to Toronto’s Moose. We stopped at a pharmacy for lozenges where a helpful sales lady suggested Ruakuri Caves instead of Spellbound Tours for Waitomo. We booked a 2-hour tour for Ruakuri Cave which left within minutes of our arrival. Spellbound was only available after a 3-hour wait.
We were not disappointed – right choice! This cave was discovered 400-500 years ago by Maori hunters – or so the legend goes. The Maori considered the original cave entrance sacred so a man-made entrance is used; a spiral ramp with dim lights so your eyes can adjust to the darkness 75 metres below. The tour covered 2K of vast caverns, awesome limestone formations of stalactites and stalagmites, glowworms and fossilized seashells. Our guide, Zane, was an entertaining teacher of fact and folklore! For example, glowworms are actually fly larvae whose glow is provided by their excrement. The females glow brighter because they hold more ___.....according to Zane. We saw and heard screams from people black-water rafting in the underground rivers far below our walkway. We also heard mighty waterfalls only to learn they were actually quite narrow and shallow; the echo magnifies the rush of water! We walked through this cave where millions of years ago water flowed; careful not to touch the delicate formations and hoping we had captured on film some of the majestic surroundings. Well worth the visit! Google Ruakuri Cave tour!
From here we travelled back towards Otorohanga to an all-day breakfast place & veggie market. It was after 2pm & they had venison burgers on the menu ... how could one resist? Fresh vegetables loaded in the car we headed for home via alternate route hwy 3. This time we entered Hamilton’s south end; no detours! The return drive was through prosperous-looking farms: dairy, beef and horticulture. We drove through Te Awamutu the Rose capital of NZ. We didn’t stop at its Museum although we did see the Uenuku carvings, symbol of the local Maori tribe.
A full day and a good day! Kia Ora

Hamilton, Wed-Jan-13-2010

Up early, the cleaning lady arrived at 8am. It looked like rain and it is quite windy; not Toronto weather but after the sun yesterday we are happy to have a cloudy day. Today the Christmas tree is taken down and the ornaments packed away for our hosts to discover next year. We were able to connect with Lauren (today) & Sydny (yesterday) via MSN. A nice connection with home! Thanks ladies... Today I have laryngitis; can’t write much ha! Not to mention how quiet it is for Tom!
Today I thought I would show you my picture of Bridal Veil Falls & keep it short!

Hamilton, Tue-Jan-12-2010

Today we completed our first driving excursion, travelling a narrow, twisting highway with speeds posted at 100 K/H, uphill, down vale to Raglan 48 Km west of Hamilton; just to see the Ocean. I was too busy reminding Tom we were approaching sharp turns to close my eyes! Lots of one-way exit options but not the ones we would take willingly! It took us nearly an hour to exit Hamilton but that was the navigator’s fault (me!)! taking a little longer to recognize signs, landmarks and road markers! With hindsight we may have benefited from upgrading our GPS & bringing it along! Who knew the streets could be so confusing! We are not new to driving in unknown places/cities: Paris, Rome, Barcelona, Alps, etc. I managed to see Bryant Street; once would have been enough but by the 3rd time we knew we were driving in circles!

We were delighted to arrive in Raglan; a time-warped Bohemian seaside surfers’ paradise! Raglan is black sandy beaches (iron content), panoramic views of the Tasman Sea, swimmers/playing & surfers/riding the waves. What a time out! Raglan i-site supplied a town map with top things to do: leap off Te Kopua footbridge (literally); swim Ngarunui Beach, drive across the one-lane bridge to Manu Bay and Whale Bay to watch the surfers. We did a walk-a-bout to get our bearings then drove to Ngarunui Beach to enjoy our picnic lunch. It was a breathtaking view. See uploaded picture above or Google search Raglan NZ for videos/photos!

After lunch we hiked down to the beach to walk on the sand. Then drove along to Manu Bay to watch the surfers. A glorious way to spend an afternoon! Around 3:30 we decided to head back and stop at Bridal Veil Falls. A beautiful waterfall near the town of Te Mata in the Waikato district which we saw sign-posted on our drive to Raglan. We parked and walked a tree-canopied path alive with the ever-present fern leaves and bushes! There are no snakes in NZ – so I didn’t mind walking the path with sandals. A slow-moving river ran alongside the path, totally not preparing you to exit the path at the top of the falls and witness the water cascading over the edge into the pool 55 metres below. The area is well managed with great places to snap photos and see the rainbow of colour at the foot of the falls. The vegetation is lush and the colours of green varied – a magical place. Google Bridal Veil Falls NZ for videos/photos.

From there we headed back to Hamilton. The drive on the twisting roads seemed less daunting. We made it back without unplanned detours. A glass of local Chardonnay was a great reward once we got home. Sassy was pleased to see us; a little brushing was her reward!

Hamilton, NZ Mon-Jan-11-2010

It rained steadily all night; no trouble hearing it on the tiled roof. By 9:30 we had arranged a car from Low Cost Rentals, which provides a pick-up/drop-off service. By 11:30 the father of the Owner/Operator arrived to get us and with notes from Google Maps to plot our route home, we were off. Our driver arrived from Hungary 50 years ago and entertained us with stories as we travelled back to sign the paperwork.

Tom drove back from the rental agency and I navigated; playing to our strengths! Six round-a-bouts but we did it! A few more times out and I'll be brave enough to drive! Relieved to arrive home without getting lost! After a quick lunch we grocery-shop in earnest. This time we found our way to the New World shopping centre with ease. We now have several local white wines chilling, fresh local fruits and vegetables.

We discovered a Cheese shop - old world smells and Dutch expertise. Hans has lived here for 23 years, a chef, baker and maker of cheese. After several taste tests, we brought home a few different kinds! We are now ready for our first picnic! Just like Spain, except the wine was more than 99 cents Euro.

Hamilton, NZ Sun-Jan-10-2010

It was warmer this morning when we woke up after a second great night’s sleep. We still don’t have a car, quite content to enjoy the comforts of this home. We feel tired today; still getting over jetlag and perhaps relief from the stress of electing the Home Exchange route. We checked out local bus routes and relaxed on the patio in the sunshine. Sassy allowed me to brush her; by now the birds are nesting on a fur blanket!
For dinner we ordered-in. Little India delivered for $7 & we enjoyed Rogan Josh (lamb), Butter Chicken, basmati rice and naan. With delivery it cost 45 NZ$; less expensive than dining out. Less tasty than the Indian Kitchen in Thornhill – but still good food!
After dinner we settled in on the couches to watch TV and enjoy the Christmas tree lights. Sassy groomed; we are accepted a little more as caterers to her needs. By 11 pm we were falling asleep and ready for bed! We are sleeping well; so quiet, perfect for sleeping.

Hamilton, NZ Sat-Jan-9-2010

An inviting sunrise and a hot air balloon floating along in the morning air thermals greet us this morning. Sassy is warming to us – I was able to eat my cereal while she ate her breakfast; then I’m certain she meow the word ‘out’ for me to open the door for her versus using her ‘pet door’. As the saying goes “loneliness may make strange bedfellows”!
We relax on the patio – tempered glass enclosure – with a view of Hamilton. The morning sun warms our bones and the glass breaks the chill in the wind. Before too long, we need our Tilley hats for shade! The task for today is to secure a rental car; while the transit system appears to be quite good, a car is really needed. After several hours – no car is booked but we are hopeful – tomorrow.
We need more groceries; with the help of Google Maps we plot a route to New World Shopping. It is 2.9K & 6 streets. The houses are all bungalows, tiled roofs, lawns with roses, lavender, hydrangeas, ferns and lilies everywhere. The street divide is a mass of colour. Plants in Canada, are trees here! The street names are Buckingham, Avalon, Thomas, etc. A heavy influence of Britain, a gentle reminder of our common ancestral roots!
Our big adventure was our hike to the grocery store and back. We took a knapsack; that + a couple of grocery bags we shared the return load. Notwithstanding the 6K walk in warm sunshine made us glad to make it back to a cool beer! Our meals have been lite cuisine: sandwiches, cheese & crackers, cereal and, of course, coffee with Baileys! Once we have a car we can shop for heavier items and a wider range of food selections – not to mention local wines! For now we rest & rejuvenate! Day 2 finds us early to bed & boy does the bed feel great!

Hamilton, NZ Fri-Jan-8- 2010

We arrived at LAX shortly before 11:30 to learn AirNZ counter opened at 1pm. We knew we would be early, but! There was no place near our hotel we wished to have lunch; too tired and too little time for a quick tour of LA; our only option was to hang out at the airport. Front of the line check in and through security shortly after 1 pm. This time we had no problem with taking knapsacks onboard; the stuff other passengers carried through security was absolutely a joke! We had lunch at Route 66; shopped at Duty Free (2 litres of Baileys+ iPod/MP3 speakers for 34 USD–hope it travels well in my suitcase once we leave Hamilton!); we found a quite area on the 2nd level near the airline lounges, away from the hustle of the commuters & clean washrooms nearby. We took turns napping and before long it was time to board our flight.
The aircraft was a 747-400 double-decker series and we were seated in seats 63 G & H; 2 aisle seats & 5 rows from the rear of the plane. Close to the washrooms with a fully booked airplane! The crew were friendly and there were no delays. We were served a full course meal; complimentary bar service; personal entertainment system: movies, TV, games, radio, audio books; flight information. It was neat to watch the kilometres fly by as we cruised along at 864 KM/H -48⁰C outside and that by trips’ end we had travelled 10,555 KMs in 11 hours and 46 minutes - shaving a full hour from the scheduled flying time – landing in Auckland at 4:30 am Friday January 8th. None too soon with the quality of the stale air onboard!
We completed the New Zealand Passenger Arrival Card – penalties for the non supply of information ranged from denied permission to enter New Zealand through to heavy fines and/or imprisonment. My hiking boots and remedies supplements were declared as stated under “Biosecurity” notes; no problems there when they confirmed the boots were new / clean and the supplements were capsules / pill forms. We adhered to “Honesty is the best policy. If you are not sure – declare it!” Within an hour we were outside hooking up with our shuttle driver.
Three other passengers joined us: a college student from Spain arriving for a 3-month program to learn English; two young ladies returning from a vacation in the US. We had a middle-aged female driver who lives here in Hamilton, has 5 children and has never left the North Island of NZ. We learnt a lot from her as we chit-chatted along the journey. Once she knew we were doing a house exchange and scheduled to meet the owner’s daughter at 8:30 am; she dropped us last – giving us a chance to see Hamilton.
A couple was at the house, assumed correctly it was Ray’s brother Barry and his wife. Then Ashleigh drove up in her car! What a warm welcome to a new land! Barry said he comes by daily to water the grounds; a very friendly chat. Ashleigh, a beautiful young lady, introduced us to Sassy, the cat and gave us a tour of the home; a designer couldn’t stage better. Christmas tree was left up for us to enjoy; especially nice since we had no tree of our own this year.
Ashleigh gave us a ride to the New World grocery store; our 1st groceries. We had hoped to walk back: too tired, not sure we knew the streets; looked like rain and a local bus gave us an alternative. The bus driver was very helpful; we were not on her route. She offered us a free bus ride to a taxi stand.
The Taxi driver was confused - with the help of our map we navigated him back to our street. Granted a little round-a-bout and 26 NZ$ later – although he dropped the fare to $23 – still a bit of a rip! But we were home and we had food! Time for a snack and a nap! The next challenge was getting the internet to work. Ashleigh & Scotty came to our rescue. Using his laptop; we experimented until we got his to work. From there it was an easy step to get ours to work. Success!
After they left, we watch a little SKY satellite TV by 10pm we were ready to fall into the beautiful bed! Day 1 in NZ! Myth buster # 1: toilet flushes in what direction still needs confirmation!

Hamilton-NZ-Jan 8, 2010

We are here - just sleeping for now! All first impressions are a strong positive! Will fill you in more tomorrow morning. Notice we skipped January 7!

LAX - January 6, 2010

There is blue sky and sunshine outside; we have the window in our room opened to let in warm breezes! Tom is enjoying a morning coffee in bed and I've already been downstairs had my breakfast & read the newspaper. Saw the small bottom left paragraph of the Sport's section the results of the Hockey game "US Gold" - I guess if Canada had won it would have gone unreported!

We arrived at the airport at 4 pm for our 7:55 flight. Did you see us on CTV news - interviewed re new security measures?

We were no time at all getting through the first security and US customs; however the only carry-on permitted were a knapsack (if it had a laptop), meds, small purse & cameras. Tom was using a knapsack for his meds & camera and could not take onboard. His stuff was moved to my knapsack, since mine had the laptop. Then he had to pack his knapsack in the suitcase. Once we cleared the initial screening process; before we could enter the hallway to our gate, barriers were up, gender lines formed and very thorough pat downs were given!

We met a very nice couple during the process (they were interviewed as well by CTV) Tom & Marion Warne from Oakville. They were flying out of LA this morning at 7 am for Hawaii; no doubt they were extremely tired. They use "Vacation Rentals by Owners" for their 8 week stay; last year they did the same thing only for 6 weeks. It was good to have extra company! Our plane was delayed arriving from Montreal (the first 20 minute delay); then the plane had a mechanical issue (another 30 minute delay); decision to call up a new plane (another 30 minutes delay); finally around 9:30 pm boarding commenced. Then we waited onboard for catering to arrive -- around 11 pm we started the taxi down the runway -- with a minor wait for the snow plows to finish! When we finally arrived in LA (smooth flight) we had to wait for a gate - the plane passengers irrupted in snickers! 5 hour flight - 12 hours of commute! We finally made it to bed at the Comfort Inn at 2:30 am or 5:30 am (Toronto time).

But we made it - safe and happy! Now we can rest until noon before we begin the journey back to the airport. At least we have free internet here at the hotel! Now I must check on our NZ flight!